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 Post subject: oily dizzy...
PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 5:24 pm 
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Location: Guelph, Ontario
Hey, i was checking some stuff out in my engine bay just now, and i noticed that there was a droplet of oil hanging from my distributor cap. the car is a 1990 GTi, well, the engine is out of a mk3, but whatever. its all the same. anyways, i remember ages ago i put a new cap on it and noticed a small amount of oil inside it at that time, but i didnt think much of it and i guess i forgot about it all together. anyways, what seal inside is most likely leaking? is it that seal on the end that connects to the camshaft? would that let oil out into the cap or do i have bigger fish to fry? Reason im asking instead of just pulling it out is because i would rather get the seals i'll need first, then start into the job. So thanks in advance for any advice.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 7:27 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 19, 2005 1:49 pm
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Location: Ontario
its the seal inside closest to the camshaft its worn out best thing to do is pull out the distrbutor pull off the rubber o-ring go to crappy tire and look through all there rubber o-rings till u find one that is the same size and then slide the new one and put the distrbutor back in.

Alex


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 7:31 pm 
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http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?p=121444#121444

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 8:09 pm 
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Unfortunatly the oring on the outside of dizzy shaft does not cure the oil inside the dizzy problem.
Both my GTi's had oil leak problems inside the unit, from a bad oil seal that is on the shaft with the bearing.
My cure was to have a spare runnin in the car and sent my unit out for rebuild.
It came back from Autoline in Winnipeg, looking like it was brand new with a new cap and rotor. But $150 is the price.
I have not taken apart my spare dizzy yet, to see If I can fix the leak myself.
Maybe someone here has disassembled one, and can tell us what the deal is on the internal shaft leaks these dizzy's are plaged with.
One note the o ring on a G10 and G13 dizzy is the same part and size.
And can be purchased at any GM dealer.
I also picked up a 3in ID oring to replace the gasket under the cap.
The oring on the housing has to be the right diameter to seal the housing.
The housing O ring replacement will not cure the internal shaft leak in the dizzy.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 9:03 pm 
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Location: Guelph, Ontario
Knuckles wrote:
Unfortunatly the oring on the outside of dizzy shaft does not cure the oil inside the dizzy problem.
Both my GTi's had oil leak problems inside the unit, from a bad oil seal that is on the shaft with the bearing.
My cure was to have a spare runnin in the car and sent my unit out for rebuild.
It came back from Autoline in Winnipeg, looking like it was brand new with a new cap and rotor. But $150 is the price.
I have not taken apart my spare dizzy yet, to see If I can fix the leak myself.
Maybe someone here has disassembled one, and can tell us what the deal is on the internal shaft leaks these dizzy's are plaged with.
One note the o ring on a G10 and G13 dizzy is the same part and size.
And can be purchased at any GM dealer.
I also picked up a 3in ID oring to replace the gasket under the cap.
The oring on the housing has to be the right diameter to seal the housing.
The housing O ring replacement will not cure the internal shaft leak in the dizzy.


not what i wanted to hear. thanks though.

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when the clutch drops, the BS stops

"Life's a rally, cut corners"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 10:40 pm 
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abby normal
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Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 10:59 pm
Posts: 1835
Location: NorCal, USA
Knuckles is correct.

If you have a spare dizzy, remove the rotor by :

Unscrew the center rotor (electrode) from the shaft.

Unscrew and remuve the crank angle sensor and mounting bracket.

Unscrew and remove the rotor bearing hold down bracket.

Mark the bottom of the dizzy shaft and the drive collar with an index mark,
this will give the correct rotor position during re-assembly.



You will need an assistant to hold the dizzy steady, resting the drive collar
on the top of the vise jaws which are open about 1/4 inch.
(this will prevent damage to the lower bushing when using the punches and hammer.

Drive the taper pin out of the distributor drive collar (on the bottom of the dizzy)
Use a center punch to start the pin moving, then switch to a 1/ 8 pin punch.
***Deburr the exposed shaft with fine emery cloth and wipe with oil.***
This must be done to prevent damage to the lower dizzy bushing when removing the shaft.


Remove the shaft and take the dizzy body to a parts house.

(On the G10 dizzys I changed the bearings and seals. Used a
CR brand seal crossed over from the OEM NOK brand )


Total cost of bearing and seal was 25 USD :)


Last edited by 87t1 on Sat Oct 07, 2006 3:36 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2006 1:40 am 
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abby normal
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Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 10:59 pm
Posts: 1835
Location: NorCal, USA
Here is some info on replacement distributor bearings and seals.

G10 ESA (electronic spark advance) distributor

Seal (Chicago Rawhide) 10mmX20mmX6mm
Stock # 3937

Bearing KOYO 6000 RS


MK1 T3 dizzy

Seal (Chicago Rawhide) 14mmX24mmX6mm
Stock # 5410 http://www.skfextranet.com/catalogs/457 ... asp?s=5410

Bearing SKF 6002 2Z / C3HT


91 GTI dizzy

Seal Shaft size is 12.45 mm =) (strange size) I will keep trying to find a replacement.

Bearing NTN 6200 LU


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