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 Post subject: DIY port and polish
PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 4:06 am 
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Location: highland
my tuner says all i need to do is buy a drill set with riming stones and he can do it easily he won't charge me and the shops charge a bunch to do it he says if i just port out the exaust ports alone it will make a nice difference and its free for me to do! :P

how much should we port and how should we polish the ports? i see alot of 'meat' that can be removed how will the stock headers keep up with the increased flow?
btw he said the intake could be done easily too but exaust will see more gains as i already have 60mm tb and going to bore thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 9:13 am 
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put an exhaust gasket and port the exhaust runners to match the gasket
here's some helpfull info http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 12:16 pm 
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thankyou man he said the gasket was bigger but i wasn't sure is the intake gasket bigger as well?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 4:29 pm 
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qwall, I found this URL very interesting about Porting/Polishing the head...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 4:35 pm 
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moved this to the FAQ section, excellent link =)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 5:35 pm 
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Both gaskets are bigger than the runners.

I used that link when I was doing a p&p on my dsm head, helped out a lot.
Here's a link for what tools and bits to use when doing your own porting http://www.carbidebur.com/automotive.html and some more helpfull info http://www.ruffstuff.com/pages/pindex.html

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2003 10:54 am 
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great! so as long as we don't bore over the gasket it won't be overkill right? he said he knows people who port too much and sactually lose h/p on the dyno scary shit! :x


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2004 2:29 pm 
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I found this link http://www.miata.net/hakuna/port2.html that explains valve job and polishing. It's done on a Miata but the idea is pretty much the same.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2004 1:47 am 
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I was messing around with this, and a brief summation for now...

Don't port match, if the exhaust tubing size is bigger than the exit of the head. If that little step is there it helps prevent exhaust reversion back into the chamber. More dirty exhaust going back into combustion chamber means more polluted mixture that won't burn like you want, more heat, etc.. You have to realize that the restriction in the ports are not at the exit but further back towards the valve.

The intake side isn't half bad, but the exhaust side sucks crap on these heads. Expanding gases towards exit, realllly, realllllyyyy blunt divider, etc.. My personal simplified reccomendation is to try and make the divider flatter (knife-edge is a bit tricky with all material that needs to be removed) and don't increase the area where it obivously doesn't need it. With these heads you can spend quite a bit of time in this area and it's something your buddy may end up regretting doing for free. :)

Ideally flow bench testing is best, but if you have done the proper research, you will see gains even without a flow bench in the case of the exhaust side. I know Jardamuth used his formidable knowledge and his own hands and no flow bench to awesome results (although I never really did hear his take on what he did).

On the intake side, for the home porter, I'd reccomend not playing with it much. Maybe clean off some of the debris with a rougher sanding roll and go from there.

Intake side - rougher
Exhaust side - smoother

try to take some thoughts from these guys http://www.theoldone.com and do a little research into air flow. I had some brief wise words from these fellows on this subject to add onto my own thoughts.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2004 1:48 am 
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If you are doing bowl blending like the miata page, be aware of where you are removing material and don't grind your valve seats. ;P


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2004 6:23 am 
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whattheeee wrote:
If you are doing bowl blending like the miata page, be aware of where you are removing material and don't grind your valve seats. ;P


Wow:P

Grinding valve seats is first thing that we did in swift head :P Those are very restrictive, and in intake can be bored by 2mm as far as I remember.
Recently I'm working on my bro's miata head, and those have very good head and short valve guides. I think It's better designed than swift head :(

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2004 12:19 pm 
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You ground the valve seats after slipping with a grinder while grinding the bowl so that there are little nicks that prevent hte valve from sealing on your brothers head?

You need proper and different tools for the valve seats, you should be able to back-cut the valves and do a few things that should add horsepower, but that becomes a much more elaborate job


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2004 1:05 pm 
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whattheeee wrote:
You ground the valve seats after slipping with a grinder while grinding the bowl so that there are little nicks that prevent hte valve from sealing on your brothers head?

You need proper and different tools for the valve seats, you should be able to back-cut the valves and do a few things that should add horsepower, but that becomes a much more elaborate job


I've been grinding not that place which is about to seal, but bit deeper are enormous restrictions in swift head. Miata has better shape of them. Tools are ok:)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:59 pm 
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Just some help to clarify the 'why's'.

With any type of "wet flow" manifold you want a somewhat course finish (350 grit paper or so). The intention is to create small eddies along the runners and port walls. The air speed will "suck" the air/fuel from the walls. If the walls where smooth and there where no eddies the fuel would cling to the walls, as vacuum raises and drops the fuel comes out of suspension. Eventually causing rich and lean conditions that can not be compensated for or predicted. The rougher walls help to insure consistent air/fuel suspension and mixture.

On the exhaust side (and in combusion chambers), try to get as close to a mirror finish as possiable. The reasoning behind this is to reject heat. You do not want heat transfering into the head/block/manifold. If you can retain near the same amount of heat until after the exhaust manifold (dependant on actual gas velocity/volume) you can gain quite a bit of torque. As the gas cools it's overall volume lessens. That does create more room. The downside to that is it creates more room for slower flowing exhaust gas (from nearer the tail pipe) to back flow and fill that voided space. We've all seen that nasty carbon build-up on the back side of the exhaust valves :twisted: . The other thing is as the gas cools it looses actual speed. Keeping the gas speed up over a longer duration will improve the scavenging effect of the exhaust stroke, whereby helping to "pull" all the inert gas out of the cylinder (which leaves a larger volume for the air/fuel mixture to fill, with less diloution).

I also have some pointers on chamber modification, but I have to test and verify that first. I will update if it works well.


John


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