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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2003 2:43 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 3:31 pm
Posts: 235
Location: Wayne, New Jersey 07470
I was thinking I'd like to tint my windows, has anybody used the stick on film?

I think the Swift windows are flat enough, wrinkling should not be a problem. Are the films truly clear after they dry?

I intend to use the lighter 30% tint, I'm pretty sure I'll have no legal problems. I think that if I use the light tint I can even do the door windows.

Anybody have advice? Once you put film over the defroster on the rear window, it's pretty permanent I think.

Also, any hints on how to do the top edge of the windshield.

Ed


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 Post subject: Tint
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2003 4:03 pm 
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Location: Atlanta, GA. USA
Hey bud. The rear window. Even after triming around the defroster. It may still peel up. Just tint over the defroster strip and disconnect it. As for the front. You just press it up into the area and trim with a razor blade.

As for removing tint. Spray Amonia on it. Let it soak. Then with a razor blade scrap an edge up. Then pull it off slowly. While spraying more Amonia.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2003 4:24 pm 
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Location: Wayne, New Jersey 07470
That's something I didn't know.

Are you saying the defroster will cause the tint film to bubble off the glass?

I'm not sure I want to give up the defroster.

Ed


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2003 10:06 pm 
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Depends on the tint and the person who applies it. I have 5% on my car and never had problems with the defrost.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 5:55 am 
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All the rear windows on the Swifts have compound curvatures, I've seen several Swifts with tint applied that had to be seamed horizontaly in the middle of the side windows. The back window will probably need to go one in as many as half a dozen horizontal strips. I installed tint myself on my old car. It turned out better than I expected, but it really is a huge pain in the ass. I can see why shops charge $200 to install tint. Here's some tips:

* Check your local regulations regarding legal levels of light transmission. Some areas require a passenger side mirror, some areas allow front window tinting with a clearer film, some places forbid any front film, some places require a special approval decal between the film and the glass.
* Buy a window film installation kit, it should come with some application fluid, a spray bottle, assorted squeegies and a knife
* Buy spare blades. Window film only cuts cleanly with a sharp blade, and a sharp blade dull fast once it touches the glass. The moment the blade hesitates to cleanly cut, break the tip off.
* Buy good film. Ever notice old cars with purple colored windows? That's what happen to cheap film when you expose it to sunlight.
* Work indoors if you can, dust between the glass and film will show up as lighter colored specs on the outside of the glass where the film is not in contact with the glass.
* Don't let the adhesive side touch each other when dry (another reseaon to work indoors is no wind)
* Don't stretch the film. You won't notice that it stretches until it won't sit flat.
* Remove as much glass as you can from the vehicle. It's easier to install tint if you can work with a pane of glass on a workbench instead of in the car.
* Thoroughly clean BOTH sides of the glass before working with it, and try to handle clean panes of glass by the edges
* Double check which side of the film is the carrier plastic, and which side is tint film. This should prevent you from laying up film that's actually backwards
* An alternative to seaming is to use a heat gun to help conture the film. I've seen shops do this, but I have no personal experience doing this

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 11:13 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 3:31 pm
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Location: Wayne, New Jersey 07470
Sounds like what I was thinking.

I was hoping that the glass was not a compound curve but I have been thinking about buying a heat gun anyway. I'll give that a shot.

I was thinking about removing the windows for application also. Is it difficult to remove those screws under the trim for the rear quarter windows without destroying the trim?

Ed


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 Post subject: Tint
PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 12:23 pm 
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Location: Atlanta, GA. USA
It is no big deal.

Yes, There is always the chance it will peel up. When using the defrost. No matter who does it.

Curved glass is no problem. Just slightly heat the edges to make it shrink a bit. Be carful you do not over do it or really melt it.

I use large tint rolls. No seams! One piece on all windows. If someone seamed a Swift. They need to not do tint. I do not do it at all for a living or ever have gotten paid for doing it. I do mine myself. No seams, No peeling, etc..

I watched a friend do two cars. Then did it. Have done my cars, trucks, and frosted some windows in my house.

Oh if you do it yourself also. Do not put tint. Where the window seals will press on it on the quarter windows. It may peel up one day; Sometimes it sticks to the seals. If they are dirty or get something on them. Also leave about an 1/8 th. gap or less on the roll up windows at the top edge. It can rub the film up and start it peeling. Just a little is needed to protect the film. Also do not roll them down for about 24 to 48 hours unless you heat dry them. To make sure all the soapy water is out from uder the film and the glue on the film as adhearded to the glass.

You can even put some film on and cut out designs. Then remove the extra material then tint over the whole thing. You can use colors or different levels of tint. But the last film must cover all of it. So it protects the design. If you want UV protectant and no tint. Get some "Safty Film" It is clear, but blocks UV. You can even use this over the designs if you want just some degin with a mostly clear background.

Anyone can tint windows it is easy! Go watch someone one day.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 2:13 pm 
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I agree with 92GT. There are no seams on any of my tint. Every window has been done with 1 piece. If you do it yourself you will save some money depending on how many times you have torecut a sheet if you mess up. Personaly, for the aggravation I would pay the money to have tinting done. Most reputable places offer a lifetime waranty on their work.

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 Post subject: tint
PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 10:43 pm 
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Location: Vernon, BC, Canada
Just find a shop that works for cash. I've had many vehicles tinted through nous here in town for $100 canadian cash for as many windows as I wanted. It's way less frustration and done proper. Thats my feelings on tint, but I've never had it come out perfect so thats why I go there. I feel like a real tool driving around with little bubbles. It feels like your in an aquarium.

Rick

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2003 10:13 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 3:31 pm
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Location: Wayne, New Jersey 07470
Professional installation is worth considering. I feel I could do a near perfect job but I wonder if I want to spend the time on it.

I'll check local prices and then flip a coin.

Ed


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 2:15 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 25, 2005 4:48 pm
Posts: 152
Location: Iowa
well, i've got the back two windows tinted, looked pretty good, but i was able to remove them and tint them inside. any ideas on tinting the rear hatch glass. also how do i get around the rear defroster? would it just be easier to remove the defroster? how hard is it to remove the hatch to tint it inside?


thanks
-santi-

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