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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 7:52 am 
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keywords: clutch pedal slip slide wet heavy abrasive friction pedal cover safety strip emery cloth

This was something I did last summer. For starters I have a heavy clutch. I've always be dissatisfied with the lack of friction on the stock rubber pedal covers. This became really obvious when rained and the clutch pedal just wants to slide off the bottom of my wet shoe. Removing the pedal covers didn't do anything. I looked around at aftermarket pedal covers, but was disappointed with ricey looking crap that either had questionable traction improvement or flakey looking brackets for mounting. Sparco and Momo have nice looking stuff, but it's not cheap.
I found what I was looking for one day in the paint section of Home Depot. Self-adhesive safety strips like the types you might put on the edges of stairs or on the rungs of a step ladder. Think of it like adhesive backed emery cloth. And for something like ~$3 a pack with enough strips to do something like 2 or 3 sets of pedals I couldn't loose! :)
The strips go one real easy, clean the old pedals with some alcohol, cut a strip a little bigger than you need, stick them on, clean up edges with a utility knife. Done.
I found the clutch pedal doesn't slip off my foot anymore. Ever. Not even when wet. I have noticed that over several weeks of use the edges had started wearing away, but there has yet to be any noticable loss of friction. I installed these in the summer of 2003 and I still haven't needed to change them yet.

Pedals freshly cleaned with alcohol, awaiting new surfaces:
Image

Newly installed friction surfaces, note package of safety strips on floor matt:
Image

Edge wear after several weeks of use:
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2005 1:36 am 
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>>Alert! Old Thread Resurrection!<<

One of my long standing grips with the pedal setup in a Swift is how poor the gas pedal is for heel and toe shifting. The pedal is way to short to even be remotely useful for that task.

Rather than slapping some unreliable ricer pedal cover on, I went and brazed a a larger sheet of steel over the stock pedal. The piece of metal is customized specifically for this application. The extension is so long it only clears the floorpan by about 1/4" when floored. As with my other pedals, this one is also covered with safety strips for friction.

Image
Image

Overall, I'm very pleased with this mod. It is now entirely effortless to nudge the gas with your heel. Some readjustment to your driving style will be needed, as this also considerable increases the leverage you have on the gas pedal. Just resting your foot on it will make the engine rev. Due to it's construction, I'll never have to worry about it coming loose or falling off either.

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maybe a picture Thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2005 4:07 am 
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I know you don't like the ricey pedals but my MOMO pedals are great. I believe they are called Turismo. You have to drill your OEM pedal to bolt these on. I was able to stagger mine a touch and the gas and brake pedal are now a nice distance from each other and heel/toe shifting is quite easily accomplished...course now I just need to get good at heel/toe shifting :P.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2005 12:01 pm 
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how about coating your pedals in "rino lining" that stuff is very grippy and i have never seen it wear out.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2005 9:50 pm 
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The friction surface is one issue I'm not entirely satisfied with. The OEM rubber pedal covers were terrible when it rained. Trying to operate a heavy clutch with wet shoes that slip off the pedals is not fun! :evil: The safety strips are an enormous improvement, they have plenty of grip when wet. The only down side is that the abrasive material wears off over time, and it's also hell on the soles of your shoes. I've got one old pair of shoes where the clutch pedal ate a hole right through the sole! :shock:

My ideal traction surface would probably resemble weld splatter. It wouldn't wear out like the safety strips do, and I'd have some level of control over how coarse I want it. I do also like the rhino lining idea. I just wonder if they sell any DIY kits or if I have to go to a truck outfitter to get it done.

Overal I'm kinda skeptical of aftermarket pedal covers, MOMO included. MOMO certainly does make some nice racecar parts, but I think they've diluted their image with the ricer part they've been making over the last couple years (sill plates, floor mats, muffler tips etc.). For my money, I expect a lot of performance out of a product especially if costs many, many times more than a scrap piece of steel and some brazing rod. Most pedal covers use rubber inserts for traction. Rubber is slippery when wet, it wears out, and may also pop out the metal plate. I'm also no big fan of screws. The last thing I want is a cover rattling loose when I'm taking a corner. The pedal cover I made features a lap joint over the entire surface of the factory gas pedal. That's gotta be something like 5 - 6 square inches of surface area. The only way that pedal cover is coming off is with big, noisy power tools.

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jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2005 9:58 pm 
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I bought skateboard deck tape for my pedals and it seems to last alot longer than the grip strips you have.

I have also been thinking about a thottle pedal mod like the one you have. I want to heel toe but the peddles are crap for it.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2005 11:31 pm 
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you guys must have really skinny feet or something, because i have no problem heel'n'toe'ing. the name of the technique is really a misnomer as you typically use the sides of your feet to work both pedals and my shoes are more then wide enough to work the swift and sprint pedals with ease.

I do find that it's really important to make sure you have as much slack taken out of the throttle cable as possible and a larger bore tb can make it even more snappy.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2005 11:40 pm 
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Are the racing sole shoes required/really good for heel toe shifting?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2005 11:42 pm 
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2005 11:55 pm 
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Driving shoes aren't neccessary, but they do help with pedal feel. Alternately, you could just use an old pair of shoes that have worn out soles (until the clutch pedal eats one :wink: ).

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jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 12:15 am 
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i find skate shoes just fine, the soles relatively thin and flexible, plus they're cheap and don't look like 'fruit boots' as some of the guys call those racing shoes ...
depending on the club/organization you're racing with, you may need the actual racing shoes or some all-leather skate shoes for fire safety requirements.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 7:04 am 
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n1tr0 wrote:
you guys must have really skinny feet or something, because i have no problem heel'n'toe'ing. the name of the technique is really a misnomer as you typically use the sides of your feet to work both pedals and my shoes are more then wide enough to work the swift and sprint pedals with ease.

I do find that it's really important to make sure you have as much slack taken out of the throttle cable as possible and a larger bore tb can make it even more snappy.


There's no misnomer there - you have a different technique - made possible by the pedal configuration of your car. In my experience Japanese cars have the pedals positioned differently to the European cars on which I learned to heel'n'toe. I now use the ball and side of my foot - as you do - because the gas pedal on the Swift is not long enough for true heel'n'toe.

BTW - it is more difficult to rock your foot left/right than it is up/down


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 8:30 am 
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When I has Vand it is no problem to work the pedal side to side. I now have Adidas driving shoes and they are almost as wide as my foot. By the way I am a wide size 13. So the width isn't so much the problem. I find that there is just not enough of the foot to cover the brake.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 8:53 am 
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Not certain that I understand you there - why would you need to cover the brake? The ball, so to speak, just behind the big toe is all you need.

On the Adidas - or any other shoe for that matter - they had better be wider than your foot or you gonna have trouble getting them on ;)


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 9:25 am 
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Lihtan wrote:
I'm also no big fan of screws. The last thing I want is a cover rattling loose when I'm taking a corner.


Well they aren't sheet metal screws they are little bolts. I used locktite on mine and they have never come loose. I agree about the pricing as it's absolutely ridiculous. They were the least ricey part I could find when I was there so they got the nod.

Now here is something completely ghetto but I know for a fact that it works as a guy I knew did it in his car and it worked great. Go to your local hardware store and buy a cheap rasp. It has to be the kind that isn't solid but made from thin steel (think they are replaceable). What he did was flatened it out in a vice and cut it into strips long enough to cover his pedal. He used double sided tape and the pieces didn't come loose for at least three years (haven't seen the guy in a couple so I can't vouch for the last few) but I think I would drill and use bolts like the MOMO's. Grip was ridiculous and I have doubts that it would wear off before you got rid of the car lol.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 7:44 pm 
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I can maybe get most of the ball of my right foot to cover the brake. under heavy braking while covering the throttle to blip the pedal heights are around 3/4" of difference maybe more. The brake being the lower of the two. I would like to have more of my foot to cover the brakes.


My shoes maybe 3/8" wider than my foot.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 7:45 pm 
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Another pic.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 8:10 pm 
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Princess auto has light-up pedal cover (rice looking ones) on sale for $10 i beleive. they look like this:

http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/speedglopedals1.html


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 8:49 pm 
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Metropwr wrote:
I can maybe get most of the ball of my right foot to cover the brake. under heavy braking while covering the throttle to blip the pedal heights are around 3/4" of difference maybe more. The brake being the lower of the two. I would like to have more of my foot to cover the brakes.


My shoes maybe 3/8" wider than my foot.


ummm - forgive me for asking - but is that the foot you use for braking?

On a more serious note - I think you need to look at what Lithan has done - the extension to the throttle plate will allow you to have the ball of your foot on the brake whilst the heel is on the throttle.

Because the human ankle permits a greater degree of fore & aft motion than it does sideways, arranging the pedals in the right positions and height will allow for proper heel'n'toe shifting.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 9:10 pm 
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I am going to arrange the throttle pedal for both. The heel - toe method to me seems like the more seamless of the two.

I have put a heel plate on the floor of my car to brace my right heel on. The new seat positions me about 5" lower than the stock seat so my leg is alot straighter than it was. On a good bump my heel tends to bounce around. The plate will have to be modified to allow for true heel - toe movement.

Here is a pic of the right foot. I think my two feet are about the same size.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 9:13 pm 
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:shock: holy crap man, live long and prosper!! :lol: i cant stop thinking of spock. i kid.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 10:36 am 
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man those are some narrow feet/shoes :lol: no wonder you heel and toe differently

twisting your leg around to get your heel on the gas pedal is just akward and uncontrolled and the throttle response on my t3 and former gti (both heavily modded) was akin to a sport bike, all you need is a light blip to pop the revs up.

what degree of layback did you go with for your kirkley seat ? maybe less layback in the seat and some overall tilt to bring your legs up a bit would work better for you.

as for braking with your left foot, nothing wrong with that, i actually cut the right lower corner off my clutch pedal to allow better access to the brake pedal. a piece of angle-iron or aluminum running along your floorboard to catch your heels on helps a lot on bumpy roads/tracks.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 12:28 pm 
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Well they seem narrow but I wear 13's.

It is the road racing seat, It only comes in different widths, unles I spend twice as much and get a true custom fit. I am going to tilt the seat brackets down in the back to help.

I can (side to side) heel toe with these shoes just not as firm of a grip on the brake pedal as I would like.

I am going to widen the throttle pedal towards the brake and lenthen it towards the floorboard a little.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 12:35 pm 
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Metropwr wrote:
I am going to arrange the throttle pedal for both. The heel - toe method to me seems like the more seamless of the two.

I have put a heel plate on the floor of my car to brace my right heel on. The new seat positions me about 5" lower than the stock seat so my leg is alot straighter than it was. On a good bump my heel tends to bounce around. The plate will have to be modified to allow for true heel - toe movement.

Here is a pic of the right foot. I think my two feet are about the same size.


Peace to you too :D you're the first person I've seen do a peace sign with their toes.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2005 6:23 pm 
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CARBON-F ... 1726QQrdZ1

Or you could just buy these.


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