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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2004 11:14 pm 
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Cleaning the MAF
Q. But how can it get dirty? Surely there is an air filter to keep it clean?

A. Well, yes there is, but air has to be allowed through, and with it microscopic pollen and other organic material which burns when it comes into contact with the sensor wire, which is maintained at 200 degrees C. The MAF electronics measures the amount of current required to keep the wire at this temperature, against the cooling effect of the inlet air flowing past it. Hence the current required is a measure of the actual airflow.

Disclaimer – this information is taken from various different tech sites, including;
http://www.motorage.com/
http://www.aircarecolorado.com/
http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/cleanmaf.htm
etc. (quick search on google)
some of it has been modified to suit the swift
you can potentially damage your sensor, attempt this ‘fix’ at your own risk.


The Hitachi style MAF sensor (figure1) is used on the Swift GT/GTi engines. It is a hot wire type sensor, which uses a platinum wire with a glass-ceramic coating over its center section. It does not use a burn-off cycle on vehicle shut down, which may be why it has problems with contamination. As the MAF inevitably becomes coated in soot the readings for the ecu become less and less accurate, but the ecu has no way of knowing this. It must accept the reading, and since the ecu uses the MAF to determine airflow for fueling, idle (with the IACV), etc. performance & fuel ratios are skewed.
figure1
Image

The Sensor consists of a screen to break up air turbulence, a thermistor to measure the temperature of the incoming air, a heated element and electronic module (figure2). A small passage inside the sensor directs part of the airflow past the thermistor and the heated element. The module measures the electrical current required to maintain the heated element at a constant temperature.
figure2
Image

The output signal is analog (0-5V) which is then converted by the PCM into a mass airflow rate measured in grams per second.

Diagnosing Contaminated Mass Airflow Sensors
MAF sensors can get contaminated from a variety of sources - dirt, oil, silicone, spider webs, potting compound from the sensor element itself, etc. When a MAF sensor gets contaminated, it skews the transfer function such that the MAF overestimates airflow at idle (causes the fuel system to go rich) and underestimates airflow at high airflow (causes the fuel system to go lean). This means that Long Term Fuel Trim will learn lean (negative) corrections at idle and rich (positive) corrections at higher airflow. If a vehicle is driven at WOT (Wide-Open Throttle) or high loads, the fuel system normally goes open loop with a rich mixture to provide maximum power.

Repairing/Cleaning
keep in mind that this is a very delicate sensor


Alt.1
the internal wires of the sensor. One is the hot wire and the other a precision resistor. You can see how fragile they are - don't drop the sensor onto a concrete floor, or prod about in there with anything - if the wires break the MAF is junk and they are quite expensive to replace so TAKE CARE.

After a couple of squirts of carb cleaner, which very quickly evaporates, the sensor wires were bright and shiny again. I replaced the rubber O ring with a smear of light oil and then bolted up the MAF sensor to the air filter box. I then lubricated the rubber hose with another smear of oil and pushed the other end of the MAF sensor into the inlet pipe and re tightened the hose clip. Reconnecting the multiplug finished the job.

Result? Smoother running on tickover, and smoother throttle response.

NOTE: take care that the sensor hoses are properly sealed against leaks.

Alt.2
Ok, so out with the "carb and injector cleaner" spray can, I fasten a little tube on the end of the nozzle, test it, and then spritz away liberally. Cleaner drips out of the other end of the sensor cross member, but the wires are miraculously undamaged.
But not quite clean, now that the wires and chamber are mostly shiny silver, a few dregs of dark matter remain, so some more fizzing with the spray can until they are completely clean. Then a couple of squirts down the tube into the engine, clean up the MAF fittings and a drop of light oil to ensure a tight seal around the rubber ring and the whole thing goes back together the way it was to begin with.
Also, don't forget to connect the electrics, this is probably the one that will be forgotten if anything is. your car will not make it out for the driveway, but it will still start.

Alt.3
Removing the MAF sensor on the Swift is easy. Just remove two screws and the wiring connector and the sensor module is in your hand. A close visual inspection may show there is a fuzzy build-up on the sensing element. This requires a bit of scrubbing with a soft toothbrush ( :shock: warning, this was what was recommended in only 1 article, scrub at your own risk!!! ) and some throttle body cleaner. Just spraying the sensor wire may not remove the fuzzy build-up (small fibers from the air filter). follow this with some brake cleaner and compressed air to make sure there is no residue on the sensor that would attract more dirt. ( :shock: warning, again, sounds pretty extreme ) Re-install the sensor module and see how it works.

(please post any personal success/failure here, thanks)

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2004 5:09 am 
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Excellent tip, but I would probably use isopropyl alcohol or contact cleaner to clean the sensor instead. I think it would be safer to use chemicals designed to clean electronics, as opposed to chemicals designed for attacking engine sludge.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2004 12:17 am 
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I just cleaned my MAF recently, I did it while I was also cleaning and reoiling my air filter. I would recommend at least a yearly MAF cleaning if the air filter has been replaced with a K&N. I have heard of stories of the filter oil K&N uses getting sucked past the filter and contaminating the MAF sensor.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2004 11:45 am 
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which contact cleaner did you use ? and were there any other tips you came across ?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2004 6:37 am 
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I just use whatever can of contact cleaner they sell at RP Electronics.I'm assuming just about any brand should work. I've seen contact cleaner on the shelf at Canadian Tire and there's even a remote chance that Radio Shack might have it. Contact cleaner is designed to clean electronics, connectors and switches without leaving residue. All I did was hose it down, letting the pressure of the aerosol propellant do all the work. The stuff evaporates within seconds, so you don't have to wait long to reassemble the MAF.
I'm sorry I can't give you a before and after comparison. I also cleaned out my clogged air filter at the same time, and I'm sure that made a huge difference! :wink:

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 Post subject: Cleaning
PostPosted: Mon Jun 21, 2004 9:43 am 
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I have cleaned mine. No problems, been a year now. Sence I had the code. On the MAF. I used isopropyl alcohol. I let the hot wires soak in it. For a min. or so. Let it dry out. Then put it all back together. Running perfect sence. No more code.


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 Post subject: cleaned my maf
PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2004 7:18 am 
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took some of the advice from this thread and cleaned my maf with some contact cleaner. when i took out the maf and looked at it very closely it was very dirty! the wires had a lot of black spots on it. i took a can of contact cleaner and sprayed the wires until all the black spots were gone. put it back into the car and no problems...haven't noticed any difference although.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 9:41 am 
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n1tr0 wrote:
Cleaning the MAF


Where can I find it exactly (swift 16v / 1,6 sedan)???
UNDER the filter disc in the filter box? Bit to the side? PLease advise or provide photos if available)...

TIA

TG


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 3:55 pm 
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The MAF is the first immediate device between your airbox and your intake duct. It's made of aluminum and will have a wire going to it.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2005 6:21 am 
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Lihtan wrote:
The MAF is the first immediate device between your airbox and your intake duct. It's made of aluminum and will have a wire going to it.


I have a 16v 1,6 GLX sedan - does it have a MAF or just MAP? Is it UNDER the airbox a a whole or under the cover? I get persistent 1+3 error code - I described it it the topic newbie with experience - I assume it could be MAF from the manual - it does afffect the A/F ratio and I have changed the O2 sensor - still get the Ceck Engine code 13.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 6:48 pm 
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I need a new airflow sensor urgently. Do you have any ideason where I can find one?


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2005 1:34 am 
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How do you get to the MAF from the MK2 T3's to clean them? I,m changing all my piping to Vibrant Performance air induction tubing soon so I figured I would do it then.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2005 1:46 am 
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the turbo 3 cylinders don't use a hotwire MAF like the gti's, there's nothing to clean since they have a door style flapper that mechanically moves to measure airflow. you can take it apart and lube the door to keep i from sticking and mess with the spring to change your AFR a bit .. best to leave it alone if there's nothing noticeably wrong with it.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2005 1:49 am 
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Thanks n1tr0. That makes that easy. It also saves me from scratching my head a lot trying to find it cause it wont be there.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2005 7:30 pm 
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I've been told by a buddy at work that if you use brake cleaner, to use the "non-chlorinated" variety. Maybe I'll do this now...

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 Post subject: 3 cyl Turbo
PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 2:25 pm 
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n1tr0 noted that the 3cyl turbo's don't have the same configuration as the gti. etc.. I have a 88 turbo with the same problem. At first it was an idle problem, adusted the TPS several times and idles fine now.. just no power under 3000 RPM. The timing, tps are within tolerances, cleaned the maf and throttle body, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, no noticable vacumn leaks.. just no power.. any thoughts.?


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 3:26 pm 
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your maf is the "trap door" type. have you checked to see you get full , smooth sweep of the door? otherwise, it sounds like your timing is retarded. have you checked to see if the t-belt is lined up? sometimes the t-belt will be off a tooth and the dizzy is cranked around to get the ignition timing close.
i have also seen the tab on the dizzy folded over where it rides in the cam.

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 Post subject: Re: 3 cyl Turbo
PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 6:41 pm 
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ctrysngr wrote:
n1tr0 noted that the 3cyl turbo's don't have the same configuration as the gti. etc.. I have a 88 turbo with the same problem. At first it was an idle problem, adusted the TPS several times and idles fine now.. just no power under 3000 RPM. The timing, tps are within tolerances, cleaned the maf and throttle body, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, no noticable vacumn leaks.. just no power.. any thoughts.?

.

How about bad turbo i have the same problem
or pluged pre-cat been there to
.
.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 11:52 pm 
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a little update, you can buy MAF cleaner by the can from any parts store (eg. NAPA) ..
this only works for hot-wire type MAF's, not the barn door style flappers.
the flapper MAF's have a different set of problems, namely the spring getting weaker over time causing you to run richer, but also, the shaft can be bent by a backfire causing it to jam/stick .. only solution then is to throw it out & get a new/rebuilt one :P

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 3:21 pm 
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I used WD-40 and a shop rag to clean my MAF flapper on my mk1, worked fine and didnt bother the temp probe any. Didnt make it run any better or worse but I felt better about it.


Scott

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 1:48 pm 
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well it finally warmed up enough to get back in the garage, reset plugs, TPS, and timing is right on.... I'm narrowing it to a bad TPS, or Turbo at this point, if anyone has any other suggestions I'm open to suggestions... Outside of the test for 0V-DC and 12V-DC just off of idle, is there any way to tell if the TPS is bad..? Thanx


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 10:08 pm 
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ctrysngr. Get a boost gauge, it can tell you lots.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 8:40 am 
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Thanx.. definitely couldn't hurt..


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 3:16 pm 
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tbirdscott... any suggestions as to which vacumn line to stick it on..?

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 9:20 pm 
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here's were I tied my boost gage in on my 88 sprint turbo
.
.
Image
.
..

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t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
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jrjd wrote:
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