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 Post subject: Oil
PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2004 1:11 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 28, 2003 6:16 pm
Posts: 64
Location: St Petersburg, Florida
Hi everyone, I'm having a real problem finding a 30 wt.
motorcycle fork oil or a hydralic oil of the same wt. in
order to refill my struts as per an article on the forum.
I live in Florida and would really appreciate a little
help if possible. Anyone got some answers? Thanks

Doug


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 Post subject: Oil
PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2004 6:49 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 7:44 am
Posts: 451
Location: near Burbank, Calif
I think regular 30wt is much too
viscous for the struts, particularly
in lower temps.
A 5w-30 synthetic (Mobil 1) would
probably be a good choice.

5-15 wt oil is what most shocks/
struts use.

Depending on the wear in your strut
and the ride you like will determine
the best viscosity.

Again, motorcycle fork oils come
in 5, 7.5, 10, 15wt or so.

Try one, or all, to see what fits
your requirements and strut
condition best. :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2004 1:16 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2003 1:59 pm
Posts: 206
Location: Surrey, B.C.
Don't use syn oil, the valve was not designed for it. ...as for wt. bel ray makes 15, 20, 25, and 30. I have 20 wt. and believe me on the street you woulkd not want a heaver wt fork oil unless your struts are toast, and if they are them there is no point.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2004 2:40 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 3:48 pm
Posts: 13
Location: Slovenia
GMC wrote:
Don't use syn oil, the valve was not designed for it


What harm can it done?
I usually use castrol 10-40W even my mechanic put 10-40W oil into my car.

I hope that's OK?


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 Post subject: Oil ..oh well..
PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2004 8:25 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 7:44 am
Posts: 451
Location: near Burbank, Calif
Don't use syn oil, the valve was not designed for it

The main benefit of using straight 20 or 30wt oil is
it will save you money.
You won't need to purchase a outside temp gauge. (humor)

When its a cold morning, you'll know it because
the car will feel like a padded brick when hitting
a pothole or dip.

Conversely, you can tell when its hot, on a rough road,
because the car will probably wallow around alot.
Much like it has worn out shocks.

This is all due to the viscosity change most
mineral oils go thru from low temps to high temps.

That's why shocks usually use the lightest weight
hydraulic oil - to minimize flow change due to temps.
(or put in synthetic... but that costs more $$)

The following are (some) suppliers of synthetic shock oil:

http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/fork.htm
Neo Shock / Fork Oil - 100% Synthetic Base
0wt, 5wt,10wt, 20wt, 30wt

-or-
http://www.amsoil.com/products/stl.html
"The numbers can range from 2.5 to 30, depending on the manufacturer. AMSOIL STL correlates closely to a 5 weight, while AMSOIL STM is close to a 10 weight."
AMSOIL Shock Therapy Suspension Fluids are formulated for maximum stability and high performance. High quality synthetic basestocks and high viscosity indices provide unparalleled shear stability.

-or-
http://www.spectro-oils.com/products.htm (synthetic)
Golden Spectro Cartridge Fork Fluid 125/150 (7.5W), 85/150 (2.5W)

plus many others...

Since most motorcycles (dirt bikes) have adjustable dampeners
you can fiddle alot with dampener response by adjusting knobs.

The sealed (shock/dampener/strut) unit on cars leaves you with only
viscosity changes to affect dampening.
(unless you want to cut it open and resize the holes)

Pres


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